While we recovered from the early morning rise and Shackleton walk, the ship moved on to Grytviken. This is a serene bay which was once home to yet another whaling station. It only ceased operation in 1965 and is the only one in South Georgia that can be visited. All hazardous materials have been removed and there is a small museum explaining how it once operated. There are a few people living in Grytviken over the Summer months. They are there on a voluntary basis for scientific and environmental purposes. I posted a couple of postcards from the tiny post office, but later found the next collection will not be for 6 weeks so I guess I’ll be home long before them.
Looking back at the entrance to the bay
Whaling station, post office, museum and church. The full extent of Grytviken.
Replica of the James Caird
Contraption used to haul up and melt whale blubber
There is also a small church here but it is rarely used for religious purposes. It is used more as a meeting hall now. Grytviken is famous as the last resting place of Ernest Shackleton. After the dramatic rescue of his men from the failed Endurance expedition, Shackleton went back to Antarctica to make a second attempt at a transverse of the continent. However, on reaching S. Georgia he suffered a heart attack and died. Knowing how much he loved Antarctica, his wife instructed that he be buried there.
Church in Grytviken
One of the passengers we got to know, Harry, hails from the UK but is married and living in Ireland now. He had been given a special mission by his wife’s boss to deposit stones from Shackleton’s home county of Kildare, on the grave in Grytviken. This mission had been assigned to someone else previously but who had died before getting to S. Georgia. Thankfully, Harry succeeded. Being a little superstitious, I was never so glad to see stones scattered, and history not repeat itself. We poured some whiskey on the grave too, a tradition held by the tour operators we are with.
Buried alongside Shackleton are the ashes of his right hand man, Frank Wild. It was Wild that was put in charge of the men left on Elephant Island and by all accounts it was down to him that they all survived the long months waiting to be rescued. His remains were found in S. Africa after many years of searching, by a woman whose name I have forgotten. His ashes were brought to Grytviken in 2011 and after a ceremony in the little church I mentioned earlier, his ashes were re-interred. Wild and Shackleton’s descendants (grandchildren I think), attended the ceremony.
Shackleton’s grave
Stone carvings on the grave, you’ll need to zoom in
Back of the headstone
- Frank Wild’s headstone
Apologies for the quality of the above photo. It had started snowing then and my camera had gotten cold. It needs to be heated up regularly. I have been using these amazing hand warmer pads to do the trick.
We were surprised to see a yacht pulled into the tiny harbour. There is no way I’d fancy sailing in these waters. However, there was a couple on board with their 2 children and they seemed happy enough to be chilling out here. Chilling being the operative word!!
Graveyard – taken during snowfall
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