Society Islands – Bora Bora

On the afternoon of May 10th we reluctantly left Tahaa and headed for Bora Bora.  Bora Bora is completely surrounded by an extensive barrier reef so it was crucial that we get there before nightfall. There is a wide channel but it is pretty busy because of the number of cruise ships coming and going.  Sadly this is where I will leave the voyage and the adventures.

We arrived at the entrance to the channel in daylight but were met by a huge departing cruise ship which had already started making its way through the channel. We decided that prudence is the better part of valour and let him have the channel all to himself while we waited outside the entrance. For those of us who have lived for months on a yacht, these cruise ships look like floating multi-story office blocks – quite intimidating.

Bora Bora - as seen from the Marina Restaurant in Raietea

 

Chart plotter view of Bora Bora. This is a good illustration of the reef, lagoon, Motus and the main island.

 

Waiting to enter the channel

 

You can just see the gap in the reef (channel entrance) at the bottom of the peak

We eventually came through the channel at sunset.  John and Gavin were busy navigating while I played the tourist with the camera. Well, someone had to capture the beauty! Like all the French Polynesian islands, Bora Bora is volcanic.  It is made up of the main island, surrounded by a lagoon and circled by smaller islands, or Motu. As we came in through the channel the sun was setting over the motus in spectacular fashion.

Miriam and Paticia – posing!

Gavin looks worried - very unlike him. Maybe I should be too?

 

We had a berth booked in the Marina in Bora Bora but because it was so dark we decided to drop anchor for the night and tackle the docking in daylight. And where better to anchor than right in front of the world famous Bloody Mary’s bar. This is where all the stars go to eat when they visit and the food and ambience is American. There are 2 massive bill boards outside with the names of various visiting celebs carved into it. In the evening the restaurant lay out all their meats and fish for you to choose from and then cook the food in front of you.

Bloody Mary's

 

Some of the famous visitors

  

Lunch in Bloody Mary's

 

Most unusual/impressive chain for toilet flush

 The following afternoon we made our way to the Marina. There was just one slot left, which meant docking was going to be tight, especially given the length of Sapphire.  And to make things even more difficult, our berth was right in front of the bar and it was a Med mooring so we would be backing in. We had a rowdy audience of Arc folk who had been at the bar since opening time – it has been quite a while since all boats were gathered at the same location so all were in high spirits. Suffice to say, we made it in without damaging the pontoon, the bar, the neighbouring boats or ourselves – but there were a few hairy moments, lots of shouting and an endless running commentary from the bar terrace.

Sapphire docked in front of the Marina Bar

Jerry and I had only a couple of days left so we decided to rent a car and do our own tour of the island. The people in the car rental place couldn’t understand why we wanted a car for a whole day! It turns out you can drive around the island in a couple of hours and most people choose to cycle it.  As with a lot of these atolls, the road runs along the outside of the island and you can only go inland in a 4X4. . The reef in Bora Bora is renowned for great snorkelling and diving. Jerry and I had planned to go out in the early morning of his last day, but due excesses of the previous night, this didn’t happen.  Since this was to be my last few days as part of the Arc I spent most of the time socialising with the other boats. Given where we were docked it was hard to avoid people anyway. We literally stepped off the back of the boat onto the bar terrace.

The island is beautiful and I would have liked to have spent more time there.  I would have rented a bike and cycled around for sure.  There is only one hill of any note along the road and most people just pushed their bikes up that.  You can cycle the perimeter of the island in about 4 hours. The main island is not as touristy as I expected. There are a couple of restaurant, supermarkets and souvenir shops, but most tourists stay in hotels and resorts out on the motus.  These are pretty self-contained in terms of excellent restaurants, water sports, spas and also have their own water transport to and from the main island.

Jerry brought me breakfast in bed and was shocked to find I was up, bed made and in the shower. I have an undeserved reputation for lying-in!

 

This is the life !

 

 

For Jerry’s last night (and my second last) we went to the Black Pearl Resort for dinner and a show. To get out to the motu from the main island we went to a bamboo hut on the side of the road where there was an internal phone link to the resort.  They sent a ferry to get us.  This place was pure luxury. The bars and restaurants were under grass roofs with open sides, looking out over Bora Bora lagoon.  The rooms were tiki huts on stilts over the water on white sandy beaches. All very tastefully done and leaving the island/motu unspoiled.  Each hotel/resort e.g Hilton, Meriden, etc are located on their own motu.  I can see why it is popular with honeymoon couples.
 

Waiting for the Black Peal Resort ferry

 

After Bora Bora next stops for Sapphire are Tonga, Noumea, Fiji and a couple of other remote islands.  This means the usual provisioning, laundry etc needed to be done in Bora Bora.  No rest for the wicked.  A new crew member, Richard, also joined in Bora Bora and Scott arrived to do a handover to him. The majority of ARC boats were leaving from Bora Bora on the day I was flying home so I got to join in the activities organised by the ARC – all except the fancy dress dinghy race which we didn’t take part in.  This was a chaotic fancy dress affair where you had to use oars instead of an engine.  Our dinghy was way too heavy to compete. Most participants ended up in the water when other competitors got close enough to tip them over and the Glamorous  Gallahs (Ozzie boat) mooned all on-lookers. (One photo I won’t be posting!!).

Arc dinghy race

 

Arc boats getting ready for the next leg to Fiji

 

Parasailor being launched...

 

Parasailor up - they made it look easy

 
 

Over the start line - I wish them all fair winds and following seas

Last day.  Dreading going back to “civilisation”. Final farewells. Last minute gathering of email addresses. Promises of keeping in touch although I am notoriously bad at following through on these promises. However, I hope this time I will be different.  I have met some truly amazing, adventurous people on the Arc. Most of them have another year to go before they reach Europe again.  Sapphire will go as far as Fiji with the Arc and then split off for New Zealand, hoping to arrive near Aukland in October.

The Bora Bora airport is out on one of the motus. There is a ferry from the main island but only flight passengers are allowed on board. So I had to say my goodbyes to John, Patricia and Gavin before boarding the ferry. It was hard to leave.

Bora Bora airport ferry

It was all running far too smoothly. Until I got to the airport that is. I needed to get to Tahiti by midnight in order to catch my flight back to LA and onwards to NY. But when I got to the airport in Bora Bora they had no record of my booking even though I had a booking reference. I had to go on standby and finally, after 3 false starts got the last flight out of Bora Bora.  Part of me secretly hoped I wouldn’t get out and I’d have to let fate dictate that I return to Sapphire.

The End

 

 

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