Farewell to Kenya – we‘re off to Tanzania. We didn’t have many opportunities to meet Kenyan people but those we did meet were polite, helpful and always smiling despite their obvious poverty. And of course our 4 Exodus crew are all Kenyan.
While in the Masai Mara, Margaret and I upgraded from tents to a “lodge”. The campsite had a limited number of dwellings made of chipboard and canvas but nonetheless had 2 beds, toilet and shower. Luxury! Once our fellow travelers heard there was a possibility of an upgrade there was a human stampede and despite being first to ask we were assigned a lodge deep in the undergrowth miles from the bar and kitchen. Well, Margaret was having none of this and before I knew where I was, we were directed to a much more desirable location, a stones throw from the bar by a much chastened park attendant.
(we have a photo of the lodge but can’t find it at the moment)
While the area around the lodges was green and lush (with plenty of little critters), the landscape in general was very arid. We are at the end of the long dry season. We rarely, if ever, saw a piece of cultivated land apart from a corner of maize – looking poorly. At the roadside markets huge heads of white cabbage, sweet potatoes, carrots and potatoes were being sold by women dressed in bright colors. Roads were dusty and we wondered how these people didn’t choke. School children ran alongside the bus waving, wearing their school uniforms, amid clouds of dust. Avacados grow abundantly and we saw trees laden down. They were very cheap also in the market and we enjoyed our chef’s “Doli Moley“ for lunch. Traditionally the Masai don’t cultivate the land. They eat neither fruit nor veg in their diet. Finding pasture for their cattle, sheep and goats is their full time occupation. Their herds, large or small, are always cared for by a shepherd.
On leaving the Masai Mara reserve we crossed the Mara river and came across about 20 hippos, wallowing. They don’t seem to do much except flick water over themselves using their tails. But apparently they can walk up to 10k in search of food.
The Mara river
Crocodile
By mid afternoon we were at the border of Kenya and Tanzania at a town called Isebania. They are very fond of paper work in East Africa!! We filled out forms to exit Kenya. Then walked across the border into Tanzania, filled out more forms and paid $50 dollars for a visa. Then off to the bank to get out Tanzanian schillings – more paper work. There seems to be a lot of animosity between Kenya and Tanzania. I must check this out when I get home. They wanted to search the whole bus and all our bags which would have taken forever and just seemed to be for divilment. We did a deal that 6 of us would bring in our back packs to be searched and this seemed to satisfy officialdom.
Lake Victoria is around 100k from the border. We had been warned that Lake Victoria and the Serengeti are plagued with Tsetse fly and that their sting is very painful. But apparently you need about 100 stings before you get seriously ill. Not long after the border crossing these pesky flies started to come in the windows. Time for the 100% deet I had been saving for just this type of occasion. Lots of people got stung – but not us. Although I did smash one into the window and was shocked at how much blood it had in it. Yuck!
Dinner by the lake rustled up by our cooks Nic and Moli
Given the tsetse fly situation and no doubt lots of mozzies this close to the lake, Margaret opted to upgrade us to a chalet. Thank goodness. There was a bar here too which was very welcome after such a long day. Generally, we are in bed by 10pm and up at 6am, so not much pub time.
Weaver bird nests at Lake Victoria
Next stop – Serengeti for 2 nights. We will be camped in open bush with cold showers and primitive bathrooms .
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