San Blas – at last!!

I don’t know how John found his way by boat to the airport at Corazon de Jesus. It is on a tiny island just off the coast of Panama in the eastern Caribbean Sea. The only tell-tale sign is a bright orange windsock waving among the palm trees. Gavin, my nephew, and I arrived in the smallest plane I’ve ever been in – a 6 seater island hopper. My head kept hitting off the ceiling and there was a mist of rain blowing in on top of me through the edge of the door.  It was almost as bad as flying to Inis Mean – but at least here there is a sort of concrete runway.  The good thing is that the dinghy (from now on I’ll refer to it as the RIB ‘cause its easier to spell), was able to pull in at the end of the runway so no trekking through the jungle – yet.

The San Blas islands are home to the Kuna Yala Indians. There are over 300 islands but only around 40 of them are inhabited. Some of the inhabited islands are completely overcrowded but most appear to have only 1 family living on them.  They live in cane huts with thatched roofs and use dugout canoes for transport. The main diet seems to be coconuts, plantains and seafood. Tourists are not allowed to remove coconuts from any of the islands, whether inhabited or not.  However, we were given some in exchange for bottles of water one day while anchored off an island.  They were promptly made into Pina Coladas by Scott, the skipper.

Typical of all the islands in San Blas
We are often the only ones on these islands
Sapphire at anchor while we explore in the RIB/dinghy
Some Kuna Indian’s camp
Houses are made from bamboo-like sticks and thatched with palm leaves
The only mode of transport we’ve seen the Indians use has been these dugout canoes

All the islands we’ve seen so far are extremely flat with amazingly white sandy beaches – the only vegetation being palm trees. Some are so small they just have a circular beach with 2 or 3 palm trees in the middle. Reminiscent of an old screen saver from the 80’s where the guy was stranded on a desert island. All are much smaller than Tom Hanks’ Castaway island.

The day after we arrived, World Arc had organised a beach party on one of the islands, so that the crews from the various boats could get to know each other before the long passages start. Understandably the group seems to fall into 2 age groups. Boat owners being over 50, retired or running their own businesses and crew members in their 20s and early 30s who have not yet settled down.  The common denominator being a sense of adventure, a free spirit and in a lot of cases – ample funds.

Kuna Yala performance at the Arc beach party
Hard working Sapphire crew member, Scott, embracing island life
Lobster – bought from a passing Kuna in his dugout canoe
The starfish here are plentiful and vary in colour

We are due to stay around these islands for about a week while the crew changes and training take place. Surprisingly, there is mobile phone coverage near inhabited islands, but it seems that only US mobiles work here.  O2 don’t have provider agreements with the Kuna Yala – imagine!! So I’ll be posting this after I arrive in Colon at the mouth of the Panama Canal.

77 thoughts on “San Blas – at last!!

  1. Hi Miriam OMG and I mean that in capital letters what an amazing place

    photos are fabulous. U probably negotiating the Panama Canal as I type

    Hope you having an amazing journey. looking forward to hearing more

    bless n hugs marybmcg

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